Belo Horizonte – Travessias

             Não por acaso nasci em Belo Horizonte, mas por destino, confirmado depois pelo meu retorno, após dez anos de residência em São Paulo. E, por eu estar ausente, mais presente Belo Horizonte se fez em minha memória, principalmente, porque vínhamos de férias todos os anos.

            As lembranças do Bairro Floresta tornavam-se, cada dia, mais longínquas, dado o tempo que se distanciava.

            Deixei Belo Horizonte aos quatro anos de idade, com destino à capital paulista. Nessa idade, conheci o significado de saudade e já tinha, no olhar, visões de passado.
            Na bagagem fonética, “uai” e “trem” faziam parte do meu vocabulário, ironizados pelos paulistas. Lá, a bisnaga era bengala, e o balão, bexiga. Não se tomava “bomba” na escola e, sim, era reprovado. A recuperação era segunda época, e prova era sabatina, ainda que não acontecesse aos sábados.
            Nas férias de julho e dezembro, eu partia com a família para a capital mineira, onde os parentes residiam. Os passeios ao centro da cidade davam-se a pé para admirarmos as paisagens. Inesquecíveis os carrinhos de frutas nas esquinas, exalando os cheiros de abacaxi e laranjas descascadas na hora, pela manivela manual que, artisticamente, retirava a casca por inteiro e eu a rodava, recitando o abecedário, aguardando que ela se arrebentasse, revelando-me a letra do nome daquele que seria, futuramente, o meu escolhido.
            Descendo a Rua Tamóios, em direção à Igreja São José, atravessávamos a arborizada Av. Afonso Pena e ganhávamos o Viaduto de Santa Tereza. Imponente, majestoso, impunha-se, a mim, como passarela, sendo os arcos à esquerda e à direita lanças, num crescente e decrescente, abrindo-me passagem…
            À noite, com seus postes antigos iluminando-o, mais parecia uma ponte flutuante. Via de mão-dupla, assim como a vida, sempre ligou o passado ao futuro – o centro ao bairro –, num constante ir e vir, numa ascendência e descendência nos seus arcos parabólicos.
            O viaduto construído sobre a linha férrea e o Rio Arrudas, como eles, tem por missão a travessia. O início e o final se confundem, dependendo da direção que se toma. Assim, também, é a vida. Onde começa? Onde termina? Seria a vida o início, e a morte o seu final? Quem sabe a morte seja realmente o início da vida? Assim, também, são as estações de trem: é sempre início para quem parte, como final para quem chega. Porém, o contrário também se dá…
            A verdade é que o Viaduto de Santa Tereza ligava dois mundos diferentes. No centro, apesar daquela época, a vida já fervilhava e lá as pessoas se aglomeravam. Depois do Viaduto, em direção ao bairro, a calma era restaurada, e a vida transcorria leve e mais silenciosa.
            As ruas dos bairros, desprovidas do progresso atual, tornavam-se pátios das brincadeiras, nos quais bolas deslizavam num vaivém, nas peladas e jogos de queimada das tardes que escorriam inundadas apenas com os gritos das crianças, sem barulho de motores, buzinas…
            À noite, eram palcos de conversas no portão, ladeado por cadeiras nas calçadas.
            No edifício em que morei, Ribeiro de Rezende, na Rua Tamóios, durante dez anos, dois personagens faziam parte do meu dia a dia. O primeiro, síndico do prédio, descia comigo no elevador quase todas as manhãs. Admirava-me ao ouvi-lo me cumprimentar: “Bom-dia!”
            Que linda voz tinha aquele homem! E que simpatia! Lembro-me de que, aos 18 anos, quando comecei a frequentar o curso de Letras, na UFMG, que, naquela época, funcionava na FAFICH, na Rua Carangola, adquiri uma mochila marrom timbrada: Letras-UFMG. O ilustre vizinho perguntava-me se eu estava gostando do curso, se eu gostava de literatura, de poesia… e, eu, ainda ignorante de muitos ícones literários mineiros daquela época, respondia a ele monossilabicamente.
            O outro vizinho morava no último andar: 12º. Um senhor baixo, de cabeça branca, magro e muito silencioso. Soube que morava sozinho e tinha um lindo piano que tocava diariamente. Certo dia, no elevador, perguntei se ele dava aula de piano, pois gostaria muito de aprender a tocar. Muito simpático, ele se ofereceu para me dar aulas, porém, não levei muito a sério, uma vez que eu trabalhava o dia inteiro e estudava à noite, não dispondo de tempo para tal.
            Só mais tarde, depois de casada, morando num bairro da zona norte, ao abrir o jornal, certo dia, dei com uma crônica do poeta e escritor Affonso Romano de Sant’Anna, citando o já falecido poeta e locutor: Bueno de Rivera, meu ex- vizinho, síndico, dono de uma maravilhosa voz.
            Anos mais tarde, soube que a Escola de Música da UFMG homenagearia o falecido músico Hostílio Soares. Meu ex-vizinho, pianista, do 12º andar.
            Dois ilustres personagens cujos atributos só fui conhecer após falecerem.
            Belo Horizonte sempre foi assim: um celeiro em todas as artes. Personagens que, muitas vezes, convivem conosco, porém, destituídos de estrelismos, circulam pela cidade na simplicidade, endossando a máxima de que mineiro é quieto.
            Na Rua Curitiba, entre Tamóios e Av. Amazonas, no Edifício Levy, morava a família Borges: Marilton e Lô. Lá se reuniam músicos e poetas: Fernando Brant, Milton Nascimento, do Clube da Esquina nascido no Bairro Santa Tereza. E eu, no centro dessa vizinhança, cruzando quase que diariamente com eles, mas sem saber quem eram, até então.                    
Nos anos 60, circulavam na cidade bondes e trólebus, mas foi num ônibus do exército que os alunos de um Grupo Escolar foram ao Zoológico. Meu irmão estudava no Grupo Escolar José Bonifácio, em Santa Tereza. Naquela época, antes da mudança para São Paulo, morávamos na Rua Bom Despacho. E a poesia já se manifestava na infância. Os alunos do antigo primeiro ano primário, ao se encontrarem com os alunos do Grupo Escolar Barão de Macaúbas, já poetavam:
            – Você estuda no Barão de Macaúbas, ladrão de uvas?
            – Eu estudo no José Bonifácio, ladrão de alface.
Quando vínhamos de férias a Belo Horizonte, eu, ainda menina pequena, só percebia que chegara a Belo Horizonte quando o carro cruzava o Viaduto de Santa Tereza. A sensação que me dominava era como se o Viaduto fosse uma passarela ladeada por arcos, que pareciam lanças que se cruzavam acima do carro e, à medida que o carro ia ultrapassando o Viaduto, elas iam se separando, assim como soldados perfilados, cruzando espadas que iam se abrindo ao avançar do carro. Era este o sentimento que me invadia ao cruzar o Viaduto: ele me saudava, numa atitude de reverência!
Domingo, mês de agosto, ano 2011. Acabo de assistir ao filme: Meia-noite em Paris, de Woody Allen, em que o protagonista que sonha se tornar um escritor reconhecido, em viagem a Paris, volta ao tempo e se encontra com escritores e artistas famosos, tais como: Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso e tantos outros. Ao deixar o cinema, percorro o corredor de saída como zumbi. Sinto que não estou ali. Adentrei a tela do cinema e caí diretamente no Viaduto de Santa Tereza na Belo Horizonte de outro século. Lá, também é madrugada. Madrugada vazia e silenciosa. Nele, passeiam escritores e poetas, cujas obras, para mim, são fontes.
Vejo Drummond escalando o arco do Viaduto e o soldado lhe ordenando que desça. Drummond o desafia a buscá-lo. O soldado começa a escalar o arco, porém, o medo o acomete e ele recua. “No meio do caminho tinha uma pedra…”
 Então, outra cena se revela: Fernando Sabino está escalando o arco. Firme, ágil, não sente medo do medo. Nadador excelente no Minas Tênis Clube, tem o espaço como a piscina, e, por isso, o domina. Ele, Hélio Pellegrino, Otto Lara Resende estão no Viaduto e nas personagens de Eduardo Marciano, Hugo e Mauro do livro “O Encontro Marcado”.
A juventude sempre foi assim: ousada, destemida. Sempre de peito aberto a enfrentar tudo, independentemente das consequências que possam advir.
Ainda como um autômato, chego ao estacionamento e entro no carro. Vários carros me circulam, deixando o shopping, e várias cenas se desenrolam a minha frente. Pergunto-me, em pensamento, por que conhecemos e convivemos com pessoas de forma esporádica, e só mais tarde, quando a maturidade nos atinge, ou quiçá, quando passamos a ter “olhos de ver”, e, assim, certos fatos e pessoas se tornam mais importantes para nós, tomamos conhecimento do quão nos seria proveitoso e prazeroso reviver cenas pelas quais passamos ou deixamo-las passar pela nossa vida. 
Deixo o estacionamento do shopping e dirijo-me ao Viaduto Santa Tereza. A noite adentra a madrugada. Paro o carro no início da Av. Assis Chateaubriand e volto ao viaduto. À medida que caminho, cenas do filme se misturam a Belo Horizonte de ontem e de hoje. Personagens, as mais variadas, desfilam diante dos meus olhos. Poetas, escritores, músicos… Quantos artistas surgiram das alterosas e, também, dela desertaram! E, pergunto-me, por que desertaram. Minas, celeiro em todas as artes, cidade acolhedora com um belo horizonte, por que será que não conseguia reter seus ícones? Ou será que muitos só se tornaram ícones depois que partiram? Incoerente pensar dessa forma, afinal, se não tivessem talento não se revelariam…
Relembro na literatura, os mineiros que deixaram seu ninho: Guimarães Rosa, Otto Lara Resende, Carlos Drummond, Fernando Sabino, Pedro Nava, Affonso Romano de Sant’Anna, Autran Dourado, Alcione Araújo…
E na Belo Horizonte atual? Quem se arrisca a ficar? Quem, como Adélia Prado, Luiz Vilela, Fernando Brant, Tadeu Franco, Celso Adolfo, Vander Lee e tantas outras estrelas, nas mais diversas artes, retornaram ou não abandonaram Minas, acreditando que é o talento que projeta, ainda que as ofertas sejam menores ou pouco compensatórias?
Num mundo globalizado em que vivemos, que, muitas vezes, prioriza mais o exportar ao importar, muitos talentos se perdem, incoerentemente, por estarem aqui…
Seria Minas, tal qual o viaduto de Santa Tereza, travessia? Daqui para o mundo?
Minas é mais que berço. É colo, é teto, é mundo. “Vasto mundo”. Minas de ouro. Ouro cujo brilho reluz, muitas vezes, em outras geografias…
Talvez, aqueles que escalaram os arcos do Viaduto de Santa Tereza estivessem preconizando o futuro aos que viessem…
Escalar o Viaduto não era apenas desafiar a coragem, driblar o medo, burlar as normas. Mais que isso, era vencer-se a si mesmo, enfrentar os fantasmas do comodismo, escrever uma nova história…
Viaduto, segundo o dicionarista Luiz Sacconi, grande ponte de concreto ou de ferro, para uso de veículos e/ou de pedestres, construída elevada, para transpor um obstáculo (rua, rio, cruzamento, etc.).
Vejamos: ponte elevada para transpor obstáculo. Não é esta a matéria com que se faz um artista? Forte o suficiente para enfrentar qualquer obstáculo que queira afastá-lo da sua obra? Não foi isso que fizeram muitos artistas ao deixarem sua terra natal?
Afinal, Fernando Sabino, no livro “O encontro marcado”, ilustra toda esta diáspora mineira, em todas as artes, na busca pelo reconhecimento do talento, de oportunidades de divulgar esse talento, de levar e elevar o estado de Minas Gerais, vencendo barreiras, preconceitos raciais, sociais e regionais, escalando obstáculos, dando asas à coragem, tal qual a travessia dos arcos do Viaduto…:
“De tudo, ficaram três coisas: a certeza de que ele estava sempre começando, a certeza de que era preciso continuar e a certeza de que seria interrompido antes de terminar. Fazer da interrupção um caminho novo. Fazer da queda um passo de dança, do medo uma escada, do sono uma ponte, da procura um encontro.”
Belo Horizonte – Travessias.
 Tantas: do centro ao bairro, do bairro ao centro, de idas e voltas, de idas sem volta, de belos horizontes ao mundo! Afinal, “todo artista tem de ir aonde o povo está”, apesar de ”uma pedra no meio do caminho” e  “Itabira é apenas uma fotografia na parede. Mas como dói…”, o verdadeiro artista mineiro, humilde na grandeza do seu talento, sempre se verá como “Um artista aprendiz!”   
 

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